Cranberry Anadama Cake
As part of an initiative to improve my mental and physical health through baking, I'm starting a personal project which, for lack of a better title, I'm going to call "The Claire Saffitz Project." (If anyone is more creative than me in that department, let me know. I'll credit you.) I'm not going to give myself a time limit per se, but my goal is to work my way through every recipe in both of Claire's books, Dessert Person and What's for Dessert. I'll write more this week about the background of this project and the general outline of it, but for now, this is all you need to know.
I was inspired to start with this Cranberry Anadama Cake from What's for Dessert because I still had a bag of frozen cranberries in my fridge that I had bought in November and never used. I am, for the most part, a very frugal person who hates waste - especially in the kitchen - so most of my inspiration of what to cook and bake comes from seeing what I have that needs to be used up. That'll probably be a pattern here. You are probably wondering what the hell anadama cake is - I had never heard of it either before making this. In the headnote, Claire says that it's a yeasted wheat bread made with cornmeal and molasses that's found in New England. For some reason I couldn't imagine how all those ingredients would taste together, so I really had no clue what to expect with this recipe.
This is a good recipe for beginning or casual bakers - it's a pretty standard mix-and-bake cake for the most part with no elaborate assembly required, and it makes use of simple and easy-to-find ingredients (save for cranberries, which can be somewhat of a seasonal thing). One of the most ingenious things about this cake, in my opinion, is its use of multiple forms of cranberry. Two thirds of the cranberries get cooked down with the molasses into a jam-like mixture that gets folded into the batter itself, while the remaining third are left whole, coated in sugar, and scattered on top of the cake before it gets baked. I've never seen this technique before - usually, the cranberries would just get mixed in like chocolate chips - and I think it's a really smart way to get cranberry flavor throughout the cake. Side note - I didn't realize how unpleasantly sour plain cranberries are. Now I realize why they are never eaten that way.
This recipe does call for a hand mixer. I imagine you could do it entirely by hand, but it would be a lot more difficult to cream the butter and sugar to the appropriate fluffiness. I am extremely spoiled, so my parents gave me a hand mixer in October (that being said, you can get the cheaper ones for around $20). This was actually my very first time using it, though. While it doesn't crush through things like a stand mixer does (I really had to go at the butter for a while to break it apart; next time I'll cube it beforehand), I found that it was easier to control the spots that need a little more mixing than others, and it was actually a little more fun than a stand mixer as well! Perhaps most importantly, it's a lot easier to clean. It definitely took some adjustment to maneuver, and mine only has two speed options so I had to adjust the instructions a little, but it was easy to get the hang of. Oh, it was also very loud, so be aware of that. But considering it can do most of the things a stand mixer can, I honestly think it's a better value between the two.
After the cake gets baked, you drizzle it with a pretty standard powdered sugar icing and grate some more orange zest on top (some goes in the batter). For some reason, my orange was not zesting well at all so it didn't look as beautiful as a garnish as it was supposed to, but that's okay. Considering I didn't really have any concrete expectations for this cake, it was very delicious. All of the flavors married really well with the tartness of the cranberries. The molasses provided a nice deep, warm note in the background while the cornmeal added an interesting textural element (I've never really had cornmeal in a baked good like this, so I can't really say definitively if it was good or bad - just interesting). The orange came through really well, and there was also a scant 1/8 teaspoon of cloves added which, though I couldn't really detect per se, probably added another layer of warmth that would be notable had I omitted it. The cake itself is not particularly sweet, so the very sweet icing on top is a welcome edition. I maybe would've liked it to be a tad bit thinner - after baking, the cranberries on top looked so beautiful and the icing obscured that a little (sadly, I did not get a picture of the un-iced cake). I think this cake would probably be better seasonally suited to the holidays, but I happened to make it on Valentine's Day which I think is somewhat appropriate because of the red color of the cranberries. Lol. Anyways, this is also one of those cakes that feels appropriate any time of day - as a sweet breakfast, an afternoon snack, or dessert.
Overall Rating: 8/10
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